Archive for August, 2014
We woke up in Ryokan Ooya to a massive breakfast. I think if I spent a week here, I would gain a lot of weight. We watched the news in the morning and heard that a huge typhoon was heading in our direction. Fortunately the weather held out for the day.
We checked out of the ryokan and went to an old gold mine which has turned into a museum. The mine is over 400 years old. Visitors can walk through and see the working conditions, complete with signs and models of workers in period clothing. The work looked hot and dangerous. I don’t think I would have liked working there.
After the gold mine, we went to Koibito Misaki (lover’s cape), a beautiful sightseeing spot on the west cost of Izu peninsula. The view was spectacular. To the we could look across Suruga Bay towards Shizuoka city. To the east were the green, tree covered mountains of Izu. Koibito Misaki is a popular tourist spot for Japanese people, but foreigners rarely visit. I think I was the only gaijin in the area today.
One of the highlights is the large “Love Call Bell”, which is a large metal bell with a rope attached. If a young couple rings the bell, their love will last a long time. We rang the bell, and time will tell if it worked.
On the way back to Numazu, we took the most windy, dangerous, crazy road that I have ever seen. At times the road ware barely wide enough for two cars. Other times the road suddenly went into endless S-curves up and down the side of a mountain. It was both fun and scary at the same time. I would recommend this road on a motorcycle, but never on a car.
Our weekend together was a lot of fun, and it was a great break from work. Japan is full of natural beauty, but you have to get away from the big cities to find it.
(2014 Update) Apparently there is a waterfall in Fujinomiya that has the opposite effect of the Love Call Bell. We didn’t go there.
The Penpal and I left Mishima and headed south towards Izu Peninsula. Toi is on the west side of Izu Peninsula. The peninsula is full of tree covered mountains with small towns along the coast and in some of the flatter areas in the middle. The Penpal has a friend who lives in Toi, and wanted me to meet her. The friend was excited to introduce me to her young son. I would be the first foreigner that he ever met. The concept of “wow my son is going to meet his first foreigner today” may seem a bit strange to people outside of Japan, but I have been hear almost a year so it doesn’t seem unusual anymore.
We had a nice visit at their house, and then moved on to our next destination, Ryokan Ooya. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. The rooms have tatami mat floors and sliding wooden panels. Everyone wears yukatas, and they serve traditional Japanese food. When we checked in, I learned that I was the first foreigner to ever stay at Ooya. The Penpal knew the owner’s family, so we got upgraded to a huge room.
Our dinner was served in the room by yukata clad ladies. They started bring tray after tray of delicious looking seafood, soups, and things I had never seen before, all laid out on fancy decorative plates. It was simply the most beautiful food I had ever seen. There was probably enough food for four people, but the meal was all for us. We did our best but couldn’t finish everything.
After dinner, we had a reservation for one of the private outdoor baths. Reservations could be made in 30 minute blocks. Like most Japanese baths, we had to clean ourselves first, and then sat in neck deep hot water. Between the relaxing water and the amazing view, our 30 minutes went by very quickly. Thanks to the food and hot outdoor bath, it was an early night.
If you ever get the chance, stay in a Ryokan. Don’t think of it as a hotel, think of it as a destination in itself. And arrive hungry.
To get some relief from my insane work schedule, I took some unpaid days off and made plans with The Penpal to go to Izu for the weekend. Our plan was to visit one of The Penpal’s friends, and then stay at a Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn).
The Penpal picked me up in her tiny car at Mishima station. We stopped at a nearby convenience store to get some snacks and drinks for the drive. At this point, The Penpal said that she needed to talk to me about something important. Usually when a girlfriend says that they need to talk about something important, it’s not a good sign. I braced myself for the worst, and then asked what was up.
The Penpal wanted to tell me that she belongs to a church in one of Japan’s New Religions, and was worried what my reaction would be.
In Japan, there are two main religions – Shinto and Buddhism. Many people use some elements from these religions at special occasions, but by and large most Japanese people are not what would be considered “religious”. There are also followers of other world religions (yes, there are Japanese Muslims), but the numbers are small overall.
In addition to the above, there are also a number of New Religions called Shinshukyo 新宗教. Japanese scholars consider any Japanese religion founded since the mid 19th century to be a New Religion. Followers are usually more active in their faith than the typical person on the street. Many, but not all, of the new religions are based on Shinto, Buddhism, or other “old” religions.
Unfortunately, the overall reputation of New Religions was damaged by the 1995 Tokyo Subway gas attacks, which were carried out by members of Aum Shinrikyo. Aum is a new religion church / cult that for some reason felt compelled to release sarin nerve gas into the Tokyo subway system. The attack killed 13 people and injured over 6000. The incident created a lot of apprehension about religion among a population that already was not terribly religious.
The Penpal told me that she belongs to a church with a very long name that is commonly referred to simply as Shinji Kyokai. She explained that her church is an offshoot of Shinto that worships one Goddess in particular, and was absolutely not a cult. She joined the church in University, and very few of her friends and family members know that she is a member.
Other than me thinking that her church was a cult, The Penpal was worried that I would want to break up with her because she belonged to a New Religion. I assured her that I liked her because of her personality, not because of her religion. I told her that I would likely never join her church, and if she was okay with that, I had no problems at all with her choice of religion. She was very relieved.
In the end, I was happy that we talked about it. Just like in the rest of the world, Japanese people have opinions on religion and politics, but most people are very reluctant to talk about either one. Preserving harmony is highly valued in Japanese society. However, in this case talking openly about religion helped us to preserve the harmony in our relationship, and brought us closer together.
(2014 Update) I didn’t write about this at all in my original blog. The Penpal still doesn’t talk a lot about her church with her friends and family for fear of negative reactions. Even though I don’t use her name in this blog, some of the readers know who she is. I checked with her before writing this to make sure she was okay with the topic and that I got the details correct.
Well, my Area Manager was transferred today, so I am a little concerned about how this will affect my pending transfer request. The new AAM won’t be based in Kawasaki NOVA, so it will be a little more difficult to keep track of what’s happening. Hopefully everything will stay on track.
Today at work I talked to my area manager and found out that my transfer to Shizuoka will “probably” take place November 1st. I am excited!
After work I watched yet more Twin Peaks with Lux and Zoe. I seriously love this show.
Today is hopefully my last day at the internet cafe. I am downloading some drivers to make the ethernet card in my new computer work. Once that is done, I will be able to subscribe to a service provider and have internet in my room at Hello House.
I have also upgraded my file transfer system. Instead of the box of 3.5″ floppy discs, I am now using a USB memory stick. It is about the size of a keychain and can store 128mb, compared to the 14.4mb that my entire box of floppies can hold. My USB key cost 3500 yen at Yodobashi camera. Technology rules!
Also, congratulations to Jamie and Jessica on their engagement!
(2014 Update) Yes, technology has changed a lot in the past 10 years. I just checked Yodobashi Camera‘s website. They are selling Buffalo 8GB memory sticks for about 800 yen. For the record, that’s about 64 times the storage space for less than a quarter of the price. And I was excited about upgrading from my box of floppies…
I didn’t end up getting an internet connection at Hello House. I would have needed to borrow a native Japanese speaker to help with the paperwork, and since I had requested a transfer I was not sure how much longer I would be in Kawasaki.
For those keeping track, Jamie and Jessica have been happily married for just over 9 years now and are proud parents.
Today was the second day of my first two day weekend since all of my visitors came earlier this summer. I celebrated by sitting on my ass and relaxing most of the day.
In the evening I went to Gyu-Kaku near Mukogaokayuen station with Lux and Zoe. In addition to the regular slices of meat, we tried out some pan fried scallops. The waiter brought us a tiny cast iron pan that sat on top of our grill, and a pat of butter. SOOOO GOOOD! During dinner the conversation turned to TV shows. We started discussing Twin Peaks and how amazing it was. I have watched the entire series with friends twice from start to finish, usually in 4-5 episode bursts. We agreed that we should re-watch the show together.
Zoe was one of the few people in Hello House with an internet connection, and used it to find a slightly illegal copy online with subtitles in a Scandinavian language that we couldn’t identify. It was one of the languages that has a letter “o” with a line through it.
After working crazy shifts for the last month and a half, a two day weekend was fantastic.